Electrical Help - Tappinng Into Existing Outlet **UPDATED OP w/PICS**

[ACE'S FULL]

I have my flat screen mounted above my gas fireplace and want to have the outlet and HDMI cable run in the wall. Now I have had an electrician give me an estimate and I think I can do it for a lot less. Now what is the best way to tackle this job? Is it pretty straight forward? Can you provide some assistance?

TIA





Front Elevation - Outlet to the lower left. Thought is to cut channel by outlet then up the wall then over to the right by tv.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010101.jpg


Closer view of corner and outlet
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010102.jpg

[Irish]

Depends on the type of wall and how close the nearest outlet / circuit is. Material costs shouldn't run more than $20 - you need an outlet box, outlet/HDMI port, cover and some wiring. Fishing it through the walls can range from relatively easy to a HUGE pain in the ass, depending on how far you're going, if you hit some blocking, have any turns, or have to go through a stud.

[ACE'S FULL]

Depends on the type of wall and how close the nearest outlet / circuit is. Material costs shouldn't run more than $20 - you need an outlet box, outlet/HDMI port, cover and some wiring. Fishing it through the walls can range from relatively easy to a HUGE pain in the ass, depending on how far you're going, if you hit some blocking, have any turns, or have to go through a stud.

The run will go up the wall about 5 foot then over about 3 foot or 8 foot total. My plan was to open the wall to run the wire up the wall. To ensure that I wont run into any problems. Drill holes in the studs just like normal.

This was the box I was thinking of. Just wanted something that I could cover up in case I moved the TV off the wall. There is a paint-able trim cover that will snap on the box.

Recessed TV Box, New or Old Work (http://www.arlcatalog.com/Fan_Specialty/Recessed%20TV%20Box,%20New%20or%20Old%20Work.htm)

[Trann]

If you're willing to open the wall to the studs, this is easy-peasy. I vote DIY.

[ACE'S FULL]

If you're willing to open the wall to the studs, this is easy-peasy. I vote DIY.

Yeah thats the plan. A little drywall patch up is no biggie that and the wife wants to paint the walls in the living room anyway.

Can someone walk me thru what I need to do so I dont screw this up?

[Trann]

I've not done a retro-fit but I'll do a quick walk through using...
[sesame-street-voice]
my imagination!
[/sesame-street-voice]

Locate last outlet in the run (LO).
Locate new, higher outlet position (NO).
This is an L-shape from LO->NO that needs drywall removed. I expect 6 inches wide to be plenty to play in.
Find your studs.
Remove drywall from center stud to center stud across (or past) the span of your LO-NO run.
Bore holes through studs you need to get through using appropriately sized bit. Protect wiring with wiring stud plate.
Turn off applicable breaker.
Local electrical codes may apply.
Open up the LO and make note of which wires went to which terminals.
Pair (or tri-wire) the LO to keep it active and run your wire to NO.
Connect outlets (don't worry about attaching to outlet boxes yet).
Turn on breaker and (carefully) test connections with circuit tester.
If good, lock down outlets and start drywall repair.
Cut one (or two, one for each leg) pieces of drywall to fit your LO-NO run.
Screw in at corners into half-exposed studs.
Mud, tape, remud, sand, prime, paint.

Bob's yer uncle.

I can't speak for HDMI connections but I'd expect it to be similar-ish.

[Quads]

DIY. EZPZ.

[Irish]

If you're willing to open the wall to the studs, this is easy-peasy. I vote DIY.

^This^

Just remember to check then double check that you've got the power turned off. If you've never done any wiring before, pick up one of those Home Depot or Black n Decker DIY books for wiring techniques like how to wire and test an outlet. Best of luck.

[huge1s]

I have done quite a few of these....the trick is in the drywall. You don't need to open up on either side of a stud...but make sure you open a hole big enought to drill, and if passing through multiple studs...open up on the same side for each stud. Put a screw in the drwall you are cutting out so you can hold it....it is not easy to fish out a small piece of drywall that has dropped into the wall. Also, get some duct tape and tape your electrical and HDMI together at the end so you can run them both at the same time.

[ACE'S FULL]

I've not done a retro-fit but I'll do a quick walk through using...
[sesame-street-voice]
my imagination!
[/sesame-street-voice]

Locate last outlet in the run (LO).
Locate new, higher outlet position (NO).
This is an L-shape from LO->NO that needs drywall removed. I expect 6 inches wide to be plenty to play in.
Find your studs.
Remove drywall from center stud to center stud across (or past) the span of your LO-NO run.
Bore holes through studs you need to get through using appropriately sized bit. Protect wiring with wiring stud plate.
Turn off applicable breaker.
Local electrical codes may apply.
Open up the LO and make note of which wires went to which terminals.
Pair (or tri-wire) the LO to keep it active and run your wire to NO.
Connect outlets (don't worry about attaching to outlet boxes yet).
Turn on breaker and (carefully) test connections with circuit tester.
If good, lock down outlets and start drywall repair.
Cut one (or two, one for each leg) pieces of drywall to fit your LO-NO run.
Screw in at corners into half-exposed studs.
Mud, tape, remud, sand, prime, paint.

Bob's yer uncle.

I can't speak for HDMI connections but I'd expect it to be similar-ish.

Ha - I love it. Splain this to me like I am a 4 year old. Perfect!!

+rep to ya for that one!

[km630]

Ace's Full --

Depending on the location of your studs, you may not need to cut any holes bigger than the one needed for the junction box where you are placing the new outlet. This is what I would do. The current electrical box will most likely be attached to a stud. Turn off the power and take off the face plate from the existing plug. Remove the plug from the junction box, but leave it attached to the electrical wires. With a flashlight, determine which side of the box the stud is attached to. If the stud is between the old box and the new box, it will be much harder, if not impossible. If the box is attached to a stud on the side away from where the new outlet is going, You are probably in luck.

Assuming you are looking at studs placed 16" on center, or even better, 24" on center, you only would need to drill through two studs to get you access to the cavity that the electrical box is in. Locate where you want to put your new box. Cut out the correct size hole for that box. You can use a 16" long 1/2" paddle bit to cut a whole through one stud. You might be able to get it through a second stud as well assuming you place the box right next to the other stud and the studs are 16" on center. Or, Klein makes a flexible drill bit that is used to cut through studs inside a wall.

Once you have cut throught he one or two studs necessary so you have a path to run the wires, I like to use a dowel - say 4 feet long for your job and some fine thread or fishing line. Cut a notch in one end of the dowel. Tie a small washer to the end of the fishing line. Run the fishing line through the notch, and hold the washer up tight against the end of hte dowel. Slide the dowel with the washer through your drilled holes. When you get the dowel as far in as the old box is away from the new box, let gravity drop the washer to close to the old box. It may be easier to take the old box out, which may require you to put a "old" construction box in its place. Tie a piece of string to the fishing line -- use some electrical tape to hold them together and make the connection "smooth" so it won't get caught going through the holes you drilled in the studs, and pull that back through to where the new box is going. Attach whatever wires you need to get from the new hole down to the old box, once again using electrical tape to make a smooth connection between the two, and pull them all together to the old location.

Make all your connections, and you are done. It might seem like lots of work, but I have done this lots of times and did not have to repaint any of the existing walls. I have only done it through one stud, but have a friend that swears he has done it through 2 multiple times.

Good luck.

[Trann]

Ha - I love it. Splain this to me like I am a 4 year old. Perfect!!

+rep to ya for that one!

Well, you did want some hand-holding...
Can someone walk me thru what I need to do so I dont screw this up?

Heh heh 8)

[ACE'S FULL]

Well, you did want some hand-holding...


Heh heh 8)


So I got exactly what I asked for... :mrgreen:

[Trann]

You know that we expect a picture-heavy breakdown of your mad retrofitting skillz when you tackle this, right?

[ACE'S FULL]

You know that we expect a picture-heavy breakdown of your mad retrofitting skillz when you tackle this, right?

Yeah I think I can do that. At least I can either show off or give you all a step by step process of how not to do something. Either way it could provide lots of enjoyment for all.

[Doctor_XXX]

Be sure to have some one else nearby take the pix, just in case, well...you "pull a YAT" and light the wall/yourself on fire! :eek:

j/k You'll be fine. Cut the power when you're working with the wires themselves, and it should be easy peazy.

[ACE'S FULL]

Be sure to have some one else nearby take the pix, just in case, well...you "pull a YAT" and light the wall/yourself on fire! :eek:

j/k You'll be fine. Cut the power when you're working with the wires themselves, and it should be easy peazy.

Yeah might have to remove the gas can from the living room to avoid this BUT i think I will be ok. I don't want to have to post pics of my burnt face and living room... LOL

[MsprinM]

TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY BEFORE TOUCHING THE WIRES!!!!

[ACE'S FULL]

TURN OFF THE ELECTRICITY BEFORE TOUCHING THE WIRES!!!!

How do you suppose I do that? Told you I was new at this...

Oh snap!

[Scuba_Dave]

Post a pic of the area
Showing the outlet you will tap off of
...and where you are putting the new outlet

[ACE'S FULL]

Post a pic of the area
Showing the outlet you will tap off of
...and where you are putting the new outlet

OP updated with pics...

[MsprinM]

How do you suppose I do that? Told you I was new at this...

Oh snap!

Kill the main breaker in the breaker box.

Or plug something into the outlet like a lamp and leave it on and go through each breaker until the light goes off.

[Trann]

I'd hope the breaker panel would be labeled.... plug-in tester confirms the rest.

http://www.eureka4you.com/home/circuitTester1.JPG

[Scuba_Dave]

Verify 15a or 20a circuit
15a = white wire these days #14 gauge
20a = yellow sheath wire these days #12 gauge

In the past #12g has had a white or a black outer sheath
Myself I would go down thru the basement to avoid drilling some of the joists
To avoid any other wires in the wall

Cut a big hole behind the TV - patch will not be seen...also so you can see
Drill over to the left to the stud bay to the left of the fireplace
Probably only 2 studs to drill thru

[390kid]

generaly lighting circs are 14s and outlets are 12s. remeber the gold lugs of the outlets land hot (black) and the silver land the nuetral (white).

[Doctor_XXX]

[thread jack]
Is it just me, or is that TV off-center a bit to the left? :confused:;)
[/jack]

[ACE'S FULL]

[thread jack]
Is it just me, or is that TV off-center a bit to the left? :confused:;)
[/jack]

Yeah slightly. Not sure how it happened but I have fixed.

Assholes...

[ACE'S FULL]

Verify 15a or 20a circuit
15a = white wire these days #14 gauge
20a = yellow sheath wire these days #12 gauge

In the past #12g has had a white or a black outer sheath
Myself I would go down thru the basement to avoid drilling some of the joists
To avoid any other wires in the wall

Cut a big hole behind the TV - patch will not be seen...also so you can see
Drill over to the left to the stud bay to the left of the fireplace
Probably only 2 studs to drill thru

The house is about 2 years old so I would assume its a 15a circuit.

My thought is to tap into the outlet run it up to the tv then run the HDMI back the same way to the outlet but drill a hole in the subfloor to run the cable in the basement to avoid the fireplace then run it up on the right side with the receiver.

[Scuba_Dave]

I'm not sure if running HDMI beside power feed is a good idea
I know with reg cable & other feeds you want seperation

[ACE'S FULL]

I'm not sure if running HDMI beside power feed is a good idea
I know with reg cable & other feeds you want separation

Ah ok... Have any idea on how much separation there should be?

[Scuba_Dave]

I'm not 100% sure
I usually like 6" seperation
Different stud bays
One person did have interference when run together:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59910

[ACE'S FULL]

I'm not 100% sure
I usually like 6" seperation
Different stud bays
One person did have interference when run together:

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59910

That's odd as all the boxes that are out there for this type of application come to the box together. Glad this was brought to my attention. I will separate the runs and put the power in one bay and HDMI in the other.

[Scuba_Dave]

Terminating in the same place is not the problem
Running teh wire side by side is
I have read that HDMI does not have this problem ..as much...as CAT cables
But when working in a wall better to avoid any possibly problem

[ACE'S FULL]

Terminating in the same place is not the problem
Running teh wire side by side is
I have read that HDMI does not have this problem ..as much...as CAT cables
But when working in a wall better to avoid any possibly problem

Ah ok... Would hate like hell to run the lines complete the drywall repair then have issues.

thank you for all your help with this...

[Trann]

Could also run shielded electrical for such a short distance beside the HDMI.

[ACE'S FULL]

Could also run shielded electrical for such a short distance beside the HDMI.

Trann you are a genius sir. Power of many minds. Thanks!

[UnkyPerv]

Front Elevation - Outlet to the lower left. Thought is to cut channel by outlet then up the wall then over to the right by tv.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010101.jpg




http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/8438/pmc.gif

If you are worried about interference here would be another option (pain in the ass because more drywall would need to be cut out and patched)

[ACE'S FULL]

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/8438/pmc.gif

If you are worried about interference here would be another option (pain in the ass because more drywall would need to be cut out and patched)

Thats not a bad idea either. Something to think about.

Thanks for the idea.

[Scuba_Dave]

Have you checked the light switch on the right to see if it has constant power ?

If its not just a switched loop you could pull power from there

[ACE'S FULL]

Have you checked the light switch on the right to see if it has constant power ?

If its not just a switched loop you could pull power from there

Its the switch that controls the fireplace... Is that still possible?

[390kid]

you might want to think about running some inch and a half flex from your components box to the tv box. that way you can get some mor cables up through there to accomadate the next greatest thing

[Quads]

you might want to think about running some inch and a half flex from your components box to the tv box. that way you can get some mor cables up through there to accomadate the next greatest thing

I like this idea.
This would kill any chance of interference however would require a little more digging in the wall.

[390kid]

I like this idea.
This would kill any chance of interference however would require a little more digging in the wall.

yeah and in new construction there is some three inch plastic we run in walls for all the home theater systems. inch and half is about as small as you should go

[Scuba_Dave]

Its the switch that controls the fireplace... Is that still possible?

If they ran hot/neutral/ground then Yes
...usually a switch loop only 1 cable goes to the switch
The white is used as a switched hot

Also depending upon what else is on the circuit
Not sure if you have LED/LCD or plasma TV

[ACE'S FULL]

you might want to think about running some inch and a half flex from your components box to the tv box. that way you can get some mor cables up through there to accomadate the next greatest thing

I guess I am not following what you mean here. Are you talking about plastic tube with the split in the middle? Wire lume?

If they ran hot/neutral/ground then Yes
...usually a switch loop only 1 cable goes to the switch
The white is used as a switched hot

Also depending upon what else is on the circuit
Not sure if you have LED/LCD or plasma TV

Ok so that maybe an option as well. I need to do some recon to see what types of circuits I have. Not to mention a lot less run if I can use that...

Its an LCD TV.

[390kid]

[QUOTE=ACE'S FULL;220374]I guess I am not following what you mean here. Are you talking about plastic tube with the split in the middle? Wire lume?

no, the the inch and a half flex is plain old metal flex conduit you get at your home improvement store the big plastic stuff is not the flex loom youre thinking of.

[ACE'S FULL]

[QUOTE=ACE'S FULL;220374]I guess I am not following what you mean here. Are you talking about plastic tube with the split in the middle? Wire lume?

no, the the inch and a half flex is plain old metal flex conduit you get at your home improvement store the big plastic stuff is not the flex loom youre thinking of.

Ah ok - I understand know. With that figured out what would you suggest I run thru that for future use?

[Quads]

Run your HDMI / audio through there.
OR- run the 110V through there. One or the other to kill any crosstalk.

[ACE'S FULL]

Run your HDMI / audio through there.
OR- run the 110V through there. One or the other to kill any crosstalk.

Gotcha... Thanks!

[ACE'S FULL]

Ok so I pulled the outlet out of the wall to figure out what I needed to do. Anyway I left my electrical book in my wife's car so I am posting pictures to find out if this still will work. The breaker downstairs is labeled for the whole living room. 5 total outlets with only 3 being used. This appears to be at the end of the line with the way its wired at least IIRC. Anyhow looking at this does it still look as easy as it sounds?

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010105.jpg

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010109.jpg

[Quads]

Is that a switched outlet?

You should be simply able to take the blank, white and copper over to your new plug. There are holes in that back of that outlet, that if you strip wire, they'll just push right in. The copy (earth ground) you'll have to tie in with the wire nut or terminal on the outlet. (or tie it into the wire nut)

The only reason I ask if it's switches, is because of the red leg on that outlet, which may be switched. (one of the two is switched?)

If you pick up the black and white, take them off the same locations as the existing legs.

[ACE'S FULL]

Is that a switched outlet?

You should be simply able to take the blank, white and copper over to your new plug. There are holes in that back of that outlet, that if you strip wire, they'll just push right in. The copy (earth ground) you'll have to tie in with the wire nut or terminal on the outlet. (or tie it into the wire nut)

The only reason I ask if it's switches, is because of the red leg on that outlet, which may be switched. (one of the two is switched?)

If you pick up the black and white, take them off the same locations as the existing legs.

Everything I read stated that plugging into the back of an outlet provides a bad connection. However I dont see any other way to do this.

The outlet is a half switched set up. Will that matter?

[Doctor_XXX]

This appears to be at the end of the line with the way its wired at least IIRC.
http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010109.jpg
I don't think it matters, but...this does NOT look like the "end of the line", to me. I think the fact that the wire nuts have THREE wires going into them (black & white) means the circuit continues from this outlet to somewhere else. Again, I don't think that really matters for your purposes, but, then again...maybe it does?

[ACE'S FULL]

I don't think it matters, but...this does NOT look like the "end of the line", to me. I think the fact that the wire nuts have THREE wires going into them (black & white) means the circuit continues from this outlet to somewhere else. Again, I don't think that really matters for your purposes, but, then again...maybe it does?

You might be right with that statement as well. I just assumed it was by the looks of things.

[Doctor_XXX]

^^^
For what you are trying to do, I don't think it matters. Just "tap in" to the main circuit (not the switched portion) and run your new wire(s) as have been discussed before. Using some flex conduit would certainly may future adds a little easier AND help eliminate cross-talk issues.

[ACE'S FULL]

^^^
For what you are trying to do, I don't think it matters. Just "tap in" to the main circuit (not the switched portion) and run your new wire(s) as have been discussed before. Using some flex conduit would certainly may future adds a little easier AND help eliminate cross-talk issues.

This is a half switched outlet. I will be tying into the black leg as its the hot line for this half. Run it up the wall and I am done. Seems like this is going to be hella easy now that I know how to run it the lines.

Thank you all for the help!

[390kid]

you are using romex right? all you have to do is tag all the wire nuts with corresponding colors and rope it over to the new location

[Quads]

then tie into the wire nuts, rather than the outlet itself. Yes, that is a better way of doing it, for sure.

[ACE'S FULL]

you are using romex right? all you have to do is tag all the wire nuts with corresponding colors and rope it over to the new location

Yep. I would like to run armored cable but I cant seem to find less than 50ft of it. I may have to go search around and see if I can locate less.

then tie into the wire nuts, rather than the outlet itself. Yes, that is a better way of doing it, for sure.

Yeah I will be tying into the wire nuts just have to get a bigger box for the existing outlet as its a little tight now and adding another line is going to make it almost to tight.

I will be running this all tomorrow so I will snap progress pics so everyone can see how its done.

[Trann]

Everyone hoist a glass in memory tomorrow evening.

[ACE'S FULL]

Everyone hoist a glass in memory tomorrow evening.

What the fuck is that supposed to mean? Punchy today eh?

[Scuba_Dave]

Just as a test
Plug something else into the outlet as a test
Not the TV
Someone on the DIY site plugged their TV in to test their new outlet
TV blew
So they tried a 2nd TV...thinking the TV was the problem
They killed the 2nd TV :eek:

[Irish]

Late back to the party, but that outlet is definitively in the middle of the run with a separate switch plug AND possibly on another circuit. Make sure you check BOTH plugs for power after cutting the one breaker before you start tinkering - sounds crazy but I've seen it before (almost zapped myself, lol). Also make sure you check your wire nut capacity, adding another connection in there (tying 4 wires together) may require a bigger wire nut. I've also heard those back plug-in connections aren't good - I personally don't like them because you can't see how good it's connected like you can with the side screw terminals.

Just as a test
Plug something else into the outlet as a test
Not the TV
Someone on the DIY site plugged their TV in to test their new outlet
TV blew
So they tried a 2nd TV...thinking the TV was the problem
They killed the 2nd TV :eek:

LOL, I can't stop laughing at this...

[ACE'S FULL]

Well its done... I am in the midst of uploading pics. BRB...

[ACE'S FULL]

First off this was as easy as everyone said it was going to be. I decided to run the power on 1 side and the HDMI on the other side. I found a deal on a slick HMDI outlet.

#1 I cut the power and checked to ensure it was off. Then measured the drywall for the channel. Scored cut and hammered out the drywall.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010115.jpg

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010111.jpg

This is what the finished product looks like. I cut all the rock between the stud cavities to make it easier to rehang the rock.

#2 Drilled 1/2" hole in the studs to run the wire. Hammered in the box and ran the cable.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010116.jpg

#3 Connected the wires to the new outlet and connected to the old outlet. I had to use bigger wire nuts but it worked great.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010113.jpg

#4 Did the samething for the HDMI side.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010117.jpg

This is with the outlet complete and the TV hanger installed.

#5 Wall ready for rock...

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t297/KSUWILDCATS_2007/P1010118.jpg

A big thanks for everyone's help with this. I am happy with the results and also have a bit more money left in my pocket...

[huge1s]

It's done now...but you really didn't have to take out that much rock. Your TV is still off center :)

[Doctor_XXX]

Your TV is still off center :)
Yeah! Weak sauce! :rolleyes:

[ACE'S FULL]

It's done now...but you really didn't have to take out that much rock. Your TV is still off center :)

Yeah! Weak sauce! :rolleyes:

I just hung it up to take pics jerks... Its not 100% complete.

Always a critic. :D

[Wedge Rock]

I didn't see where you pulled a permit. Can you post pics of that, please?

[ACE'S FULL]

I didn't see where you pulled a permit. Can you post pics of that, please?

Why??

[Wedge Rock]

Just busting chops, sir, as I assumed you didn't pull a permit.

Nice paper rip on the lower left corner of the drywall.

[ACE'S FULL]

Just busting chops, sir, as I assumed you didn't pull a permit.

Nice paper rip on the lower left corner of the drywall.

Ah I see. Well its an easy fix and I didn't feel it was necessary.

Yeah the drywall was being a bear. As most can attest to the wall wasn't close to true and they used tons of compound to "true" it up but made it damn difficult to remove. I fixed it as best as I could however its still uneven so I am going to have a hell of a time with keeping it looking good. Oh well what can ya do!

[Wedge Rock]

I rewired my entire basement without a permit. Fuck the man.

A good coat of paint fixes drywall... Do a wet send too...

[ACE'S FULL]

I rewired my entire basement without a permit. Fuck the man.

A good coat of paint fixes drywall... Do a wet send too...

LOL - Yeah what he said.

Yeah most of the time paint will fix most imperfections. However I am a tad anal about these types of things.

I know what wet sanding is but is it the same method as wet sanding a paint job for a car or wood wet sanding? Just dont want to screw something up. Never heard of wet sanding drywall...

[Trann]

Wet sanding only reduces dust; it's the same process as dry sanding, really: reducing imperfections and feathering drywall mud for priming/painting.

[ACE'S FULL]

Wet sanding only reduces dust; it's the same process as dry sanding, really: reducing imperfections and feathering drywall mud for priming/painting.

Ah ok cool... thats a great tip. I hate sanding drywall. I try to feather and make the transition look as good as it can prior to sanding. Also to avoid sanding as much as possible. It gets less dust in places and will make the wifey happy...

[Wedge Rock]

Wet sanding only reduces dust; it's the same process as dry sanding, really: reducing imperfections and feathering drywall mud for priming/painting.

This.

I try to feather and make the transition look as good as it can prior to sanding.

Yep. Just try to get it as close to possible with a putty knife. Then take a wet rag and wipe/sand it. Its easier to do before the compound dries. Don't worry about fucking it up, because you can just add more compound and start again... Not like dry sanding where you have to spackle, wait, sand, and then if you fuck up, you re-spackle and wait more...

[ACE'S FULL]

This.



Yep. Just try to get it as close to possible with a putty knife. Then take a wet rag and wipe/sand it. Its easier to do before the compound dries. Don't worry about fucking it up, because you can just add more compound and start again... Not like dry sanding where you have to spackle, wait, sand, and then if you fuck up, you re-spackle and wait more...

Sweet... Will try this tonight.

Thanks Guys!!

[Scuba_Dave]

There are different types of drywall mud
Some dry rock hard (green top), other stuff is easier to sand (blue top)
Usually green is 1st coat w/tape
Then light coats of blue

[ACE'S FULL]

There are different types of drywall mud
Some dry rock hard (green top), other stuff is easier to sand (blue top)
Usually green is 1st coat w/tape
Then light coats of blue

Didn't know that either... Huh - well I am using the blue top for everything. Thats not going to be an issue is it?

[Scuba_Dave]

Without the green top there might be problems
The green stuff is what holds the pieces together & the tape
The blue is for the topcoat & for sanding - softer
Softer = less holding

You might never have a problem

[ACE'S FULL]

Without the green top there might be problems
The green stuff is what holds the pieces together & the tape
The blue is for the topcoat & for sanding - softer
Softer = less holding

You might never have a problem

I see... Well shit I guess I will see what happens as I am done with mud just have to sand, prime and paint.

[Irish]

Without the green top there might be problems
The green stuff is what holds the pieces together & the tape
The blue is for the topcoat & for sanding - softer
Softer = less holding

You might never have a problem

Whoa, never knew that, I've always just used the blue stuff. What type of problems would you get without the green base layer?

[ACE'S FULL]

Whoa, never knew that, I've always just used the blue stuff. What type of problems would you get without the green base layer?

glad I am not the only one...

[Scuba_Dave]

I used just the green ages ago before I knew
A royal PIA to sand it smooth !!
I usually buy just a blue bucket
But since I have a lot of projects I bought a bucket of each
For my closets I used just the blue stuff.....no problems

[huge1s]

you can also "hot mud", but wouldn't recommend it on this project. And don't believe "a coat of paint will hide imperfections". it does not and actually.....you may think you have it flush and the coat of paint will show the ridges. In my last basement finish...I thought everything was perfect....painting it showed a couple high spots in my mud that of course is highlighted by the lighting.