New to site...building bar, input please!

[cant_build_sh-t]

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g83/Chipper971/IMG_0076.jpg
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A little background...my username says it all. I have never built anything but my girlfriends mom has built a few tables and is going to help us out (but she has never built a bar).

So, me and the ole lady bought our first house about 3 months ago. We bought the house knowing we didn't need a formal living room and really had no desire for one. So I started talking to bar owners/managers on my route (I work at the local Anheuser Busch distributer) and came up with the idea of building a bar in the unused room. Thinking my woman would shoot the idea down immediately I didn't sort out the details...but she thought it was a great idea so I'm ready to start!

We taped an outline and know how big we want it.
About 7 ft long, 5 1/2 ft wide.
Bar height: 43"
Counter height: 36"
Over hang about 10-12" Bar top: 14" Counter top: 12" (too big)

I have been looking at previous posts on here and have been able to figure out the basics, but I think we have a unique question/concern. In the pics theres 2 pieces of tape on the wall. This is where we were thinking of putting tap handles. The garage is behind the wall is where we are going to put a full-sized standing freezer we will be converting that into a "keezer" for probably 2 pony kegs. I guess my question would be, has anyone ever tried/done this? The wall seems pretty thin but would it be a pain in the ass to insulate the lines or anything else? Is this idea completely retarded?

The main reason we came up with this idea is to keep the width of the bar to a minimum. Any input is appreciated, thanks.

[Trann]

This looks like it'll be a fun project. Great pics to start.

I think you could lock down the pony kezzer so that you could spray foam the connection between their backs and the wall pass-through. That, or build a insulating box to keep the lines clear. If the unit doesn't move, it won't break the insulation seal and I bet you'd be good.

I don't know how tall you are but I think you might be reaching to pull those taps: the marked points are only where the lines come out and then there's a handle on top of that. I figure the tap handles should be at chest height, at most, with the lines below that appropriately.

Regardless, maybe bring the lines through the wall closer to the floor?

And you'll need a (thin/narrow) counter there with a drain for spillage, of course. Unless you don't spill.
http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/m/m5O_u0DaA5PiFd1-ykG2xRQ/140.jpg

[Quads]

The idea is awesome. Kegs on the other side with the taps on the man cave side. Easy to do. Cut the drywall away on the reverse side, run your lines up, insulate, etc. then nail / screw in some support for the taps to hang on, and mount them on the wall.

Like Trann said, I'd also dress up that front side of the wall with perhaps a piece of diamond plate aluminum or a piece of stainless sheet metal to keep splashes, spills, etc. off the wall, with the drip gutter down below, pipped back through the wall to either a drain, or a 5 gallon bucket on the other end to catch the spills.

I like all your other measurements, but I'd compare some to plans you come across (here / google / etc.) and or throw a tape measure in your pocket the next time you hit a few watering holes. This will give you some more ideas for bar width, overhand, etc.

Finally, welcome to the forum! Glad you found us, and looking forward to updates. Should be a nice project once you're done.

[Quads]

p.s. Love the dobie! We grew up with one. Wonderful dogs.

[cant_build_sh-t]

Thanks guys, that helps a lot already! We already planned on putting up a nice spill tray under the taps, but hadn't got as far as to thinking about having it go back through into the garage into a bucket! I was mainly concerned about insulating the lines from the "keezer" to the taps, but it doesn't sound like it will be as big of a deal as i thought...just would have hated to get it all set up and then have foamy, semi-cold beer!! I dont know if I will have to cut out the garage wall because it is pretty thin.

The ole lady is yelling at me to get ready to go to some concert, but i will try to get pictures up of the garage wall thickness and some other details over the weekend and see what you guys think! Thank you for your input so far!

Oh, and the dobie is excited about the bar too...he has been standing/laying in the taped out bar area since we have put it down this afternoon. I just wish I knew that would make him stay in one place before now...there would have been little blue squares in every room to keep him from trying to herd us through the house!!

Thanks again guys!

[Quads]

The wall should be framed in 2X4's so it should be roughly (depending on a few things)
interior drywall (1/2")
2X4 (3-1/2")
Exterior drywall (1/2")

Depending on the house, and a few other variables, the exterior (or interior) could be a sheer wall with 1/2 ply wood sheeting on it, and or the very slight possibility of 5/8" drywall in the garage as a firewall.

That being the case, there should be plenty of room in there to run the flex tubing for the taps and some insulation from point a to b.

Cut a hole in the garage side (6" X 6") and take a peek in there. We got drywall experts in the forum as well, so no worries if you hack it up a little.

[cant_build_sh-t]

The wall between the garage and back wall of the bar is only 4" thick! I talked to one of the draft techs at work and he said he would come by and hook everything up for us, figured we might as well have a pro do it if its free.
He said that we wouldn't need to run lines on the exterior of the keezer and could just hook up the taps directly through the wall with the shanks. My question now is, should we secure the keezer to the garage floor somehow to make sure it doesnt get moved? What would the best way to do that be?

Also, the ol' lady wants to do a mosaic-tile-type thing for the bar counter (upper) and I was thinking we could put epoxy over the whole thing to make it smooth. How thick should we make the epoxy layer over the tile? And if we left the lower counter as plain wood, could we seal it with the epoxy as well or what do we need to put on it first/instead? Sorry, I know I am going to have more questions, I really am clueless about this process...but I'm trying damnit!

[Trann]

He said that we wouldn't need to run lines on the exterior of the keezer and could just hook up the taps directly through the wall with the shanks. My question now is, should we secure the keezer to the garage floor somehow to make sure it doesnt get moved? What would the best way to do that be?
That's a great idea. And yeah: with any appliance/fixture, you'll want to secure it so that the shanks/lines don't get shorn off if someone decides to "move" your fridge.

[Quads]

What's your kegerator / keezer look like?
There is I'm sure some way to secure it to the floor, but is it necessary?

Without looking at it, you could do some type of brace, bracket, etc. from the wall to the keezer to keep it from moving, But again, some details on this would be nice / helpful to give some insight on it.

If it was made with foot / placement holes so it can be installed in that manner in which it wouldn't move, then yes, it will be very easy to do. Drill the holes in your concrete, install a redhead (http://www.homedepot.com/buy/building-materials/builders-hardware/red-head/1-2-in-x-41-4-in-wedge-anchor-for-solid-concrete-25pack-64087.html) or other type concrete anchor (http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/sleeve/index.aspx) in the concrete and tighten down.