Soundproofing

[RBann]

Newbie here. I am converting a 16 X 20 basement room underneath the family room into my mancave. I'm putting 12" fiberglass batt insulation in the joists but I'm still concerned noise will carry into the family room above. I have seen several posts where members mentioned soundproofing without any specifics. Any soundproofing suggestions or methods would be appreciated.

[Quads]

If it's really that much of a concern, then google sound deadening foam or acoustic foam and you'll find options that range widely. Regular insulation will do some as well, but not like acoustic foam will.

This is basically eggshell foam you can buy most anywhere:
Amazon.com: Acoustic Foam 2-1/2 UL 94: Electronics (http://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Foam-2-1-24-18/dp/B0002ZPLP2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1326643887&sr=8-2)

Or you can buy the good stuff:
Amazon.com: Auralex WEDGIE-24 Wedgies- Box of 24- 1x2 Panels in Charcoal Only: Musical Instruments (http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-WEDGIE-24-Wedgies--Panels-Charcoal/dp/B0002D05KA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1326643887&sr=8-8)

Or anything between.

Welcome to the forum.

[Dr Lecterr]

You can also hang your ceiling drywall on sound isolation clips. Another method is double layered drywall with green glue in between the sheets. The foam works well from what I hear.

[pauld22]

I've read about room within a room (walls about 1 foot away from the next wall) to soundproof but that's probably not in your best interests considering the space you have. I would think a drop ceiling with the padding mentioned above would be a great start.

[Oz]

When I did my theater, the wall next to it is the laundry with a bathroom. I took roofing felt and layered it up the wall with 1/2 overlap. Does a great job, on the cheap. Use lost of staples.

[jrees]

Not sure on the price, but the insulation used in all the industrial silencers we built at my previous employer was Roxul Safe n Sound. Much better than any fibreglass insulation......

http://www.roxul.com/residential/products/roxul+safe'n'sound%E2%84%A2

[wickerpepper]

I did extensive research before putting up drywall in the basement. I went with Roxul mineral wool between the joists and 2 layers of sheetrock with the Green Glue in between the sheets. Cost was more but the results are unmatched by anything else I did. Good luck.

Whalen

[RBann]

Thanks for the ideas!

[Ted White]

For soundproofing, you want mass. Like double 5/8" drywall mass. Foam has no mass. Good to control echo / reverb, but low mass materials don't isolate sound well, especially in the bass (subwoofer).

You can build a very well isolated room at a reasonable cost if you follow the following basic, tried and true man cave technology.

#1 Decouple the framing. This can be done with staggered stud or double stud walls. You often see clips and channel used on the ceiling.

#2 Install absorption in the cavities. This means standard fiberglass R13 in the walls, R19 in the ceiling. Use the cheapest fiberglass you can find.

#3 Add mass. Nothing better than standard cheap 5/8” drywall. Great mass at 70+ pounds a board, and cheap at $8 a sheet. Use two layers. Only mud and tape the final layer.

#4 Consider damping these drywall panels with one of several field-applied damping compounds.

After that, you’d turn your attention to the ventilation, lights and doors. All of these are flanking paths for sound to get out of the formidable man cave you just built. They can be dealt with fairly easily, but you’ll want to design this in.

[Quads]

For soundproofing, you want mass. Like double 5/8" drywall mass. Foam has no mass. Good to control echo / reverb, but low mass materials don't isolate sound well, especially in the bass (subwoofer).

You can build a very well isolated room at a reasonable cost if you follow the following basic, tried and true man cave technology.

#1 Decouple the framing. This can be done with staggered stud or double stud walls. You often see clips and channel used on the ceiling.

#2 Install absorption in the cavities. This means standard fiberglass R13 in the walls, R19 in the ceiling. Use the cheapest fiberglass you can find.

#3 Add mass. Nothing better than standard cheap 5/8” drywall. Great mass at 70+ pounds a board, and cheap at $8 a sheet. Use two layers. Only mud and tape the final layer.

#4 Consider damping these drywall panels with one of several field-applied damping compounds.

After that, you’d turn your attention to the ventilation, lights and doors. All of these are flanking paths for sound to get out of the formidable man cave you just built. They can be dealt with fairly easily, but you’ll want to design this in.

Great info. Thanks for joining and sharing your expertise.

[Ted White]

My pleasure. You can get great results with standard building materials. People often underestimate heavy drywall.

[Scuba_Dave]

Our house was built in the 50's, it has 3/4" exterior sheathing & 3/4" rock lathe on the inside
Nice & quiet & keeps the sound down from room to room
In addition the ceiling of the 1st floor has R-25 insulation
That keeps the sound down from the 1st to 2nd floor
I also added insulation in the bathroom shower walls to keep the sound down

[Ted White]

The great mass of old plaster and lath really helped keep things quiet

[Quads]

Ours was built in 1917. Sadly, where I need / want soundproofing, I have drywall from the renovation. There is still however a few spots of lathe and plaster.

Once I do the basement theater, I'll need to do some work down there to keep the sound down there.